Orhan Yegen is one of New York's great restaurant characters — a Turkish chef who has opened and left a dozen acclaimed rooms, always cooking exactly what he believes in. Sip Sak, his bistro near the UN, is where he settled: blue-and-white tiled, unfussy, and serving the city's benchmark Turkish home cooking.
The hunkar begendi — lamb stew over smoked eggplant purée — is the dish people cross boroughs for, and the manti (tiny lamb dumplings under garlic yogurt) are handmade and priced like a gift. Lunch specials make it one of Midtown East's best deals. Yegen's opinions come free with dinner; consider them part of the seasoning.
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