Anthony Mangieri has spent more than thirty years chasing a single idea of pizza — naturally leavened, blistered in ninety seconds, finished with nothing that doesn't belong. He's closed and reopened on two coasts pursuing it, and the Orchard Street incarnation of Una Pizza Napoletana is the purest version yet, regularly ranked among the best pizzerias in the world.
The dough is the star: fermented for days, tangy and light, with a puffed cornicione that eats like fresh bread. The menu stays under a dozen pies, supplemented by a few starters and Mangieri's soft-serve. Seats are limited and the room sells out most services, so book when reservations drop. If you want to understand why people argue about dough, this is the classroom.
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